Everything you need to know about going to the Marrakech, Paris and Monaco Eprix
There’s 20% off Grandstand tickets to the Marrakech, Paris and Monaco Eprix this season until November 14th. Here’s how to go to them and what you need to know.
Please note: I’m not being paid by Formula E to write this, these are not partner/affiliate links, people just ask me this a lot because I go to all the Eprix so here’s a guide.
Marrakech:
Marrakech is my favourite Eprix. It is stunningly gorgeous, set on the edge of the city as it seeps into the Sahara — hard to think of anywhere more dramatic or more obviously the battlefront of climate change.
Marrakech itself is chaotic, gorgeous and has that kind of light that makes somewhere seem ethereal — like a lot of semi-desert places (California is famous for it) so whether you’re an amateur or a pro take a camera.
I have been to Marrakesh totally on my own as a western woman with zero problems — I have decent travel nous and speak French, which definitely helped.
The race is gorgeous, well-attended (if you went in the first year, the second year is MUCH bigger) and the first of the season to be easy to get to from Europe. Accommodation is cheap in Marrakesh in January and although you may find an indirect flight is your best option the airport is very much open.
Locals are very enthusiastic about the Eprix so it’s also an opportunity to meet and hang out with fans from Morocco — and the EVillage had some really interesting sustainability projects showcased last year, from selfcontained, self-sustaining housing units to solar powered moisture farming. (Which Morocco already does!)
Accommodation
Going alone: souks and hostels are your friends — Marrakesh’s old town is full of them. The first time we went to Marrakesh it was during COP-22, so the whole city was swamped in climate change scientists and stayed in La Madrassa, which was cheap, clean and had a really lovely roof terrace and superb breakfast.
Going with other people: please remember that if you are unmarried and you are a man and a woman, no matter your relationship, you cannot legally share a hotel room in Marrakesh. You can in the resorts further down to the coasts but it is absolutely law in Marrakesh. You can circumvent this by booking an Air B&B which has multiple beds — they aren’t very expensive but please do NOT book the one I really like but can’t afford to reserve yet. Thank.
Where to stay: the race is a little outside the city — I walked there and back the first year I went and it was fine. The second year I was a lazy ass and took taxis. Neither was a problem — so I’d definitely say stay somewhere near the Medina.
Menara airport is actually inside the city, so I just walked all the way across Marrakesh to my hostel the first year. Prob not for the faint hearted though.
What to wear
Loose, long clothes — Marrakesh in January is not warm, whether you’re male or female do not wear shorts. For a start, you will be cold. For a second, everyone will immediately know you are a tourist.
I would recommend a light jacket at the absolute minimum — it snowed on the Sahara and we all got colds last time. So if you are bothered by heat a circuits I have some GOOD NEWS.
Marrakech is quite dusty (desert, figures) and has a lot of crowded, cobbled areas where you are in with a decent chance of having your foot trodden on so trainers and closed-toe shoes highly advised.
Don’t act like a gormless idiot and you’ll be fine. Be aware of people trying to scam you in the Medinah square and otherwise as aware as you’d need to be in any other city for eg: bag theft etc.
What to eat:
Everything. But especially grilled aubergines, falafel, olive salads and traditional stews.
You cannot drink outdoors in Marrakesh. Unless you’re on a rooftop — there’s a lovely, lovely bar with just that next to the gorgeous Palais el Bahia. Tell the head waiter I recommended you.
There is very little I could possibly say is more unearthly beautiful than sitting on a rooftop seeing the illuminations of Marrakech bleed into the darkness of the desert night, air flowing in this huge, expansive way with so little barrier between you and spaces impossibly enormous to an urban-dwellers senses, hearing the call to prayer as the scent of night flowers and incense curls around you, catlike.
Paris
Straight up: the Paris Eprix has this rap as being difficult to get around because it’s a long way between anything for people in the media centre. And we tend to be the ones whining/writing about stuff.
HOWEVER. Actually, Paris is very easy to get around — you have to go through bag search security checks on your way into the Evillage and your ticket will need to be scanned on exit but that’s hardly a shock for an event in a city centre.
And it is RIGHT in the city centre. Absolutely the jewel of the European races, Paris is dramatic, central and stunning — the parties are incredible, the crowd tres glamoureux.
Paris accommodation is pretty much as expensive or cheap as you want it to be. I recommend arriving on the Friday night (if you’re not media) and staying as close by as you can but the Metro makes travel both easy and cheap. You can buy Metro tickets on the Eurostar, if you come from London or Brussels and at the airports/most newsagents otherwise. There’s an Oyster card style thing but it’s a pain to get as a tourist so just use the throwaway stubs unless you’re planning some sort of non-stop whistlestop tour.
Paris is also quite small relative to, say, London so you can actually just walk from most stations to the track, depending on your tolerance for walking.
If you go to Paris and can’t find anything you want to eat, I can’t help you. There are a lot of reasonably priced bistros nearby the track — however, be aware that food (and particularly beer) are London priced in Paris and expect to potentially even pay more. Supermarkets can be your friend, though, with lots of small chains around the circuit.
In terms of booking grand stands, I would honestly say: grab anything you can. If it sells out as fast as last year you’ll not get much choice — but anything near a corner is a good shout, so 10, C or 1 are probably premium.
GREAT FOR: getting your step count in
SLIGHTLY LESS GREAT FOR: ultra-budget
Monaco
Oh get out, I know this is the one you actually want to know about I just wanted to make you read about how great Marrakech is first.
YOU:
A motorsport fan, not a millionaire.
ME:
An opportunity to go to Monaco that won’t cost you more than a month’s rent in Mayfair.
Flights to Nice airport are cheap, the train to Monte Carlo is then a few Euro and there are plenty of hostels and cheap hotels to stay in (mostly empty even at the Eprix time of year) in Nice. Food — and blissfully cheap light pink wine — is cheap once you get there, especially if you go again for the supermarket option (there’s one in Monaco! It’s called Casino! I’ve only ever seen another branch in Podgorica!)
I went to Monaco kind of expecting to consider it a soulless capitalist paradise. I left having abandoned all my communist ideals and ready to get filthy, dirty rich in order to spend more time there. So there’s that, as a warning.
But also: it is a magical place. It does help to speak French but you won’t be stranded without it, everyone is very friendly and of course used to tourists. There are more restaurants and bars than even I can stop for une verre du vin et un plat fruits du mer in and it is spectacularly, stunningly beautiful in an oddly comfortable and shabby way. Like finding out your mate who wears shabby Barbour jumpers actually genuinely is an earl.
Due to the lack of taxation food and drink are cheap there. There are beaches you can paddle and swim at and before and after the race you can wander around the circuit and eg: through the tunnel, giggling manically to yourself and humming The Chain because you have reverted to being about seven years old and are one moment away from holding your coat out behind you and running through it doing a Formula One noise. Ahem.
The town is steep and built on a cliff so get ready for some Butt Toning Walking Exercise.
The Eprix itself is around the harbour so relatively easy to get around and the walks between areas were level (if occasionally steep) last time. You can use lifts around the town to negotiate the larger cliff segments.
It’s a deliriously bonkers place, I highly recommend it. Also the tickets are like virtually free (>€20) just buy one and work it out later.
As always, for further queries @ me on Twitter. I live to serve.
